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Dog - Getting used to Ear Cleaning

Why does my dog not like having his ears cleaned?

Most dogs ears are a lot larger than ours and certainly a lot more sensitive. We usually only clean them when there is a problem and they are already sore, so the dog learns that handling around the ears is painful and tries to avoid it. Not surprisingly the dog struggles and may become aggressive.

If my dog really objects should I continue to struggle with him and get the job done?

No. It is important that you never put yourself in danger and it is also important to minimise the risk to your dog of learning inappropriate and negative lessons from the experience of having his ears handled. If your dog is objecting significantly to the procedure then you should seek professional assistance. Vets frequently have to examine dogs ears under a general anaesthetic or heavy sedation initially because they are so sore. In this way the ears can be thoroughly cleaned and then it is easier for you to continue regular treatment, particularly when you have been shown precisely how to do it by your veterinary surgeon.

My dog is already very aggressive about having his ears touched. What should I do?

If you need to clean or touch your dog’s ears then muzzling is essential in order to ensure your safety. It is better to muzzle train your dog in a humane way (see handout on Muzzle training) before using the muzzle during the ear cleaning process. Prevention of the problem is obviously preferable and therefore it is useful to make a point of examining and cleaning any dirt or wax from the ears during normal grooming from as early an age as possible. If your dog is already aggressive it will be necessary to alter his perception of having his ears handled and this will take time. If there is an immediate problem with your dog’s ears you should consult your veterinary surgeon and ask them to clean them under sedation or anaesthetic in order to reduce the level of pain that your dog is experiencing.

My dog has had his ears cleaned under an anaesthetic, and I have been given drops to apply but I can’t get near him. What can I do?

Following the steps outlined below should solve the problem in the majority of cases.

  1. Ensure your dog is securely restrained, using a basket style muzzle if necessary (see above).
  2. Smear the inside of the muzzle with something tasty that needs to be licked off as this will give you time to very gently touch the ear while your dog is enjoying the reward. Touch the ear as gently as possible – the aim is for your dog to barely notice that your hand is near to his ear at this stage. Repeat this exercise several times until your dog shows no flinching or avoiding on at least five successive occasions, then repeat on the other side.
  3. Now repeat the process and start to lift up the ear flap. Remember to lift the flap very gently and repeat the exercise several times until your dog shows no flinching or avoiding on at least five successive occasions, then repeat on the other side.
  4. Gradually progress to cleaning the ear flap with a suitable cleaner or even just damp cotton wool. Do not try to clean the ear canal at this stage. Start with short single wipes and then work up to multiple wiping sessions. Repeat as above on the other side.
  5. The next stage is to repeat the process while you now clean the ear canal as you have been shown by your vet. Make sure that there is enough food smeared on the muzzle to keep your dog occupied while you are doing the cleaning. Ideally break the cleaning down into very short stages and take a little break between each stage. There is nothing to say that you must clean your dog’s ears entirely in one go!
  6. Finish with a treat and lots of praise and fuss.

How long is this going to take?

If your dog does not have sore ears and is not being aggressive, this procedure can often be taught in a single day but if there are other problems and he is very head shy, more time will be required. In these cases each of the steps may be a full day’s work and will need reinforcing before you go on to the next stage.

Proceed at your dog’s pace. A useful tip is to institute the training session when he is hungry, i.e. before you feed him. This will make the food in the muzzle more rewarding.

If you appear to be having problems then you should consult your vet about seeking professional help.

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