Bird - Housing - Small (Finch, Canary, Budgie, Cockatiel & Lovebird)

General information

A bird is entirely reliant on you for everything in its life. Its happiness and good health are provided by you, the caring pet bird owner. It is important to continually strive to better your bird’s life and help ensure the maintenance of a long lasting, healthy relationship between you and your pet.

How big should my bird’s cage be?

As a general rule, bigger is better. As a legal minimum the cage must be at least large enough for the bird to fully extend its wings in ALL directions. However, this is a legal minimum. It is more pertinent to remember that there is no maximum size. In the wild, a bird would spend much of the day flying in search of food. In captivity, we must allow for some sort of exercise, self expression and entertainment. The cage must be large enough for the bird to move easily from perch to perch and be able to flap the wings without striking anything. There are numerous designs to suit all tastes. Generally a rectangular metal cage, preferably longer than it is tall, is the best. Tall, narrow cages prove to be rather impractical as most birds do NOT fly straight up and down. Round cages create a situation in which every perch across its width is in some way directly over the perch below it. This leads to constant soiling with faeces of all lower perches.

Wood, wicker or bamboo cages may be attractive or decorative but are impossible to clean and disinfect effectively due to their porous nature. These cages may be easily chewed apart by some birds.

An all metal cage is the most practical to maintain. The bars on the cage must be close enough together to prevent the bird from getting its head through the bars. However, galvanized metal is not recommended as chewing may result in zinc toxicosis.

The floor of the cage should be covered in white kitchen paper or newspaper so droppings can be checked properly. Sandpaper is not useful!

What sort of perches should I have?

A bird spends all of its time standing on a perch so careful consideration must be given to this aspect of your pet’s environment. Tree branches or wood naturally make the best perches. Providing non-toxic, washed, fresh branches such as apple, pear, elm, ash, maple or willow will be both functional and attractive in the cage. Natural branches should be selected so that a variety of diameters are available to perch on. This affords various textures, choice of grip and good exercise for the feet. Wood perches seem to help wear the nails down better than other materials. Branches provide an entertainment value for those birds who like to chew. Wood is more difficult to disinfect due to its porous nature but can be washed and replaced often.

Sandpaper perch covers do little to wear the nails down and can lead to serious foot irritation, sores or deep infections. No tree in the wild has sandpaper covered branches.

Plastic perches are easy to clean and disinfect but may prove slippery for gripping and seem to only be available in one size.

Natural hemp or cotton rope seems to provide a variety of textures but must be monitored carefully so the fine fibres do not become entangled around the bird’s toes. This is a much more serious problem with synthetic fibre rope and nesting materials which should never be used.

Concrete perches provide an excellent texture for wearing the beak and the nails. Ideally they should be placed in the cage as the only perch for a few days every month. However, they should not be left continuously as the sole perch.

What sort of food and water dishes should I provide?

Dishes are best made from sturdy non-toxic materials that are easy to clean and disinfect every day. Position the dishes so that they are easily accessible and will not accidentally be soiled with faeces. The dishes should not be too deep or food will be wasted.

What about toys for my bird?

Being cooped up in a cage all day can be a very boring, frustrating experience. Whether you are home with the bird or not, a pet must have some form of entertainment. They love to play and explore. The ideal toy is not the pretty plastic indestructible toy – it is something they can take apart and achieve a reward. Pieces of wood or cardboard tubes containing seed or pellet are ideal.

Although most companies strive to provide safe toys, there are no quality controls or regulations. Great care must be taken to ensure the toys you purchase are free of potential dangers. Be mindful of snaps, clasps, bell clappers, open chain links, removable parts, easily broken parts, glass or loose fibres that may be chewed, swallowed or that the bird could become entangled in. Rubber toys that are easily chewed apart can be very dangerous and must be avoided. Many excellent toys have galvanized clips or chains that may be a source of toxic zinc. Replace these with string or cord before placing in the cage.

Mirrors for small birds must have a covered back or frame so that the bird will not be exposed to the potentially toxic reflective backing. Polished stainless steel mirrors may be more appropriate especially for larger birds. Care must also be taken that the bird does not form an inappropriate bond with the mirror – many male budgies regurgitate to their reflection.

Some birds like to hide in boxes or paper bags. Experiment with toys and find out what your bird enjoys the most. You may wish to have an assortment of toys that can be rotated on a daily basis to keep the bird from getting bored. Some birds may appear frightened of new items in their environment. These toys should be introduced slowly to allow the bird to become accustomed to their presence.

Should I clean the toys?

Just like children these birds rapidly lose interest in toys. It is therefore important to change toys every few days. This provides an ideal opportunity to clean them.

As a legal minimum the cage must be at least large enough for the bird to fully extend its wings in ALL directions. However, this is a legal minimum. It is more pertinent to remember that there is no maximum size.