Puppy - Orphaned

Raising an orphaned litter is a time consuming but rewarding experience.  Newborn puppies (neonates) are very fragile and despite constant care losses do occur.  Bear this in mind at the outset so that you are more prepared if neonatal loss does occur.  We are more than happy to help, assist and guide as necessary.

What problems am I likely to encounter?

Several problems must be addressed when caring for orphaned puppies.  Among these are chilling, dehydration and hypoglycaemia (low blood sugar).  These problems are interrelated and often occur at the same time.  Rapid help if any of these problems develop is essential for survival.  Obviously, correct feeding of the orphaned puppy is essential.

Chilling

Chilling in newborn puppies can lead to significant mortality (deaths).  A puppy loses far more body heat per kilogram of body weight than an adult dog.  The normal newborn puppy depends upon warmth from its mother to help maintain body temperature.  In the absence of the bitch, various methods of providing heat, such as incubators, heat lamps, or hot water bottles can be used.

Rectal temperatures in a normal newborn puppy range from 35-37.2°C (95-99°F) for the first week, 36.1-37.7°C (97-100°F) for the 2nd and 3rd weeks, and reach the normal temperature of an adult 37.7-38.9°C (100-102.5°F) by the 4th week.

When the rectal temperature drops below 34.4°C (94°F), accompanying metabolic alterations are life-threatening.  Immediate warmth must be provided if the puppy is to survive.  An otherwise healthy newborn usually survives chilling if warmed slowly.

During the first four days of its life, the orphaned puppy should be maintained in an environmental temperature of 29.4-32.2°C (85-90°F).  The temperature may be gradually decreased to 26.7°C (80°F) by the 7th to 10th day and to 22.2°C (72°F) by the end of the 4th week.  If the litter is large, the temperature need not be as high, as the puppies huddle together, their body heat provides communal warmth.

Caution:  Too rapid warming of a chilled puppy may result in death.

Dehydration

Lack of regular liquid intake or the exposure of the puppy to a low humidity environment can easily result in dehydration.  Also, the lowered efficiency of digestion and metabolism of a chilled puppy may also lead to dehydration and other problems.

Experienced breeders can detect dehydration by touch.  Two signs are the loss of elasticity in the skin and dry, sticky mucous membranes (gums) in the mouth.

An environmental relative humidity of 55-65% is adequate to prevent drying of the skin in a normal newborn puppy.  However, a relative humidity of 85-90% is more effective in maintaining puppies if they are small and weak.  One method of achieving this humidity is to put a dampened towel or cotton wool near to the puppy in the container.  Normally the bitch is continuously licking her puppies.  This creates the fairly humid environment.  Her breast area is also additionally naturally moist while she is suckling her puppies.

Caution:  The environmental temperature should not exceed 32.2°C (90°F) when high humidity is provided.  A temperature of 35°C (95°F) coupled with relative humidity of 95% can lead to respiratory distress.

Hypoglycaemia (low blood sugar)

Signs of hypoglycaemia are severe depression, muscle twitching and sometimes convulsions.  If a puppy shows any of these signs of hypoglycaemia, a few drops of sugar solution on the tongue can be life saving.  If in doubt, please contact us.

What do I feed my orphaned puppy?

Total nutrition for the newborn orphans must be supplied by a milk replacer until the puppies are about three weeks of age.  At this age, the puppies are ready to start nibbling moistened solid food.

Preferred diets:

1. A commercial puppy milk replacer (e.g. Welpi, Lactol, etc.)
2. Evaporated milk made up to double strength
3. In an emergency: l cup of full cream milk, l tablespoon corn oil, l pinch of salt, 3 egg yolks (no whites) - Blend mixture uniformly

Is the temperature of the food important?

Yes.  The milk replacer should be warmed to 35-37.8°C (95-100°F).  As the puppies grow, the milk replacer temperature can be reduced and fed at room temperature when the puppy is about 3 weeks old.

How do I feed my puppy?

1. Spoon feeding we do not recommend.  With this method there is considerable risk of fluid entering the lungs.
2. Dropper feeding is easier than spoon feeding but can result in the puppy ingesting air which can cause colic.  Puppy feeding bottles are probably the easiest and most successful. There are two types: (a) The open ended feeder with the flow of milk controlled by the finger over the open opposite end.  The size of the hole in the nipple is critical.  If it is too large and milk drips from the teat, this could have serious consequences for the puppy. If too small the puppy may not be able to suck the milk.  Apertures can be enlarged using a needle and puncturing the nipple several times.  Alternatively a tiny slit can be made with a razor blade.  This is probably the preferable method since when the puppy stops suckling the small slit closes and thus drowning is prevented.  (b) Closed ended feeder.  This has a nipple at either end, the large nipple is squeezed by the thumb and forefinger while holding the bottle vertically.  Again holes or a tiny slit made in the feeding teat at the other end must be appropriate for the size of puppy.  Please consult us and we will advise.
3. Gavage or tube feeding.  Carried out correctly this is a very safe and efficient method of hand rearing.  We will be happy to supply equipment and show you the technique if required.

How much should I feed at each meal and how often should the meals be repeated?

Carefully consult the instructions on the commercial milk replacer you are using.  Quantity obviously depends upon size so that electronic kitchen scales or postal scales are useful.   Usually the quantity stated, depending on the size of the puppy, is the amount estimated to be required during a 24 hour period.

We will advise regarding frequency of feeding and amounts since these vary.  Six or more daily feedings may be necessary with weak or very small puppies.

Will I have to feed the litter through the night?

This depends on the puppies.  If very small and weak, possibly one meal between midnight and 8 a.m. will be necessary.  Usually, with most hand reared litters, if fed fairly late in the evening (10-11 p.m.) another meal will not be required until 7-8 a.m.

How long will I have to continue to hand feed?

As the puppies gain weight, the number of feeds can be gradually reduced and the quantity increased.  We will advise on this.

The puppies' eyes open at approximately 14-16 days.  Shortly after this they will start to take an interest in solid food and then bowl feeding can commence (see below).

How do I get the puppies to urinate and defaecate?

Normally when suckling the bitch is continuously stimulating the puppies by licking around the genital and anal area.  With orphan puppies it is important after each feed that you gently massage this area using a piece of dampened cotton wool or tissue.  This has to continue for at least the first 14 days otherwise puppies can become seriously constipated.

How do I get the puppies to feed from a bowl?

The weaning process normally starts as soon as the puppy's eyes have opened at 14-16 days.   Commence weaning by first placing the usual milk replacer in a flat dish.  Gently dip the puppy's nose in the liquid or smear some around mouth with your finger.  Continue to bottle feed in between. In a short time the puppy will usually be lapping the milk replacer.  This can  then be replaced with a gruel made with a mixture of the milk replacer and puppy food (canned or dry) blended to the consistency of a thick milk shake.  The mixture should not be too thick at first or the puppy will not consume very much.  As the consumption of food increases, the amount of milk replacer is gradually decreased.

By 4-4½ weeks, the orphaned puppy should be consuming enough moistened solid food (dry or canned) to meet its needs.

What about worming?

We routinely treat puppies for worms from 2-3 weeks of age.  Weekly or fortnightly wormings should be carried out until the first vaccinations at 6-8 weeks.  We will at that time advise on future worming programmes.  Please see  handouts - Common canine worms and Roundworms.

Vaccinations

The first vaccination is normally given at 6-8 weeks of age.  However, if your puppy did not suckle from the bitch during the first 2-3 days after birth, it may not have sufficient maternal immunity.  Therefore even earlier vaccinations may be necessary.  Please see  handout on Puppy - vaccination or consult us.